Sunday, September 25, 2016

Our First Repeat Vacation — in Maui!

When given a choice of destinations earlier this summer, the kids unanimously shot down offerings like Disneyland, and opted instead for Maui.  They even asked to stay in the same resort as our first trip there a few years ago, when we went with Brandon's brother Ryan and his family.  Turns out everyone had such a blast the first time around, we had to go back for seconds.  And so, Maui 2016 was born!

As usual, we packed our stay there with activities aplenty, while still allowing more than enough relaxing beach time.  We drove the surprisingly miserable Road to Hana in reverse, starting from the dry side of the mountain, not knowing that doing so was like gambling with our lives.  We hiked the spectacular Pipiwai Trail within Haleakala National Park, went ziplining again (this time, Calvin was big enough to join in the fun), and signed up for a snorkeling cruise.  Malcolm fished, and though he didn't catch anything, the kids did find a number of geckos, crabs, and other critters.  And amazingly, Stephanie and Brandon even indulged in a lovely dinner sans children.

But mostly, as always, we simply enjoyed each other's company.  Maui has become a special place for us, and we'll surely be back again before long.


Saturday, September 24, 2016

The Tuckers in Europe, the Final Chapter

It's been more than a year since Brandon posted Part III of our European adventure, so any excuse other than sheer laziness simply won't do.  He offers his humble apologies.

To wrap up our tour of the Continent (well, a handful of countries there, at any rate), we dipped into the Netherlands and took the kids to easily one of the world's best theme parks — Efteling.  Built in 1952 (and updated and added onto ever since), the park predates Disneyland by three years, and is twice the size.  Full of classic fairy tale characters and themes, plus the usual host of modern rollercoasters, Efteling is every bit as beautiful and well designed as a Disney park, but without so many of the commercial trappings.

They also have a marvelous hotel, with several themed rooms.  Since this was our big and final surprise for the kids before heading back to Paris and on to home, we splurged and booked the Gilded Suite, complete with games, interactive furniture, hidden treats, and a secret bank vault door.

Naturally, we all had a blast, and the kids agreed Efteling was the highlight of the whole trip.  When it was over, we made our way by train back to Paris, pulling into the very same station (Gare du Nord) where we began our adventure.  After a night in a centuries-old apartment-turned private home (available through Airbnb), we left Paris in the predawn hours, backpacking down eerily silent streets to a Metro station.  Another layover in Iceland's Keflavik Airport, and we were grudgingly on our way home.

It's hard to say exactly when our next overseas trip will be, but we're determined to make it (and many more besides).  Whether east Asia, Australia and New Zealand, Central America, back to Europe, northern Africa, or any one of a number of other destinations, we'll get there sooner or later.
Interior of Efteling's famous pancake restaurant, with musical, moving decorations












In keeping with the fantasy theme, we watched a live show, with incredible special effects and horsemanship








Efteling's Gilded Room (with kids' room in background)




A Star Wars-themed crêperie in Paris



The loft from our final night in Paris

Saturday, August 15, 2015

The Tuckers in Europe, Part III

What comes to mind when one mentions Belgium?  Waffles?  A small country most Americans couldn't find on a map?  The muscles from Brussels?  For Brandon and Stephanie, it's three things: beer, chocolate, and more beer.  Depending on whom you ask, Belgium produces somewhere between 800 and 1200 different beers, and has done so for centuries.  This, in a modest country roughly the size of Maryland.  They are of course equally renowned for their fine chocolates, and seemingly half of the shops one sees in Belgium are dedicated to one or both of these special treats. And though Belgium is also the birthplace of the frite, or "French" fry, dipping fries in mayonnaise on a hot day was, after having tried it, something we can't recommend to anyone with functioning taste buds.  They do make good fries, but come on; fried potatoes do not a remarkable experience make.

After our stay in London, we sailed across the English Channel from Dover to Calais aboard the Pride of Canterbury ferry, which the kids loved.  It was a hectic day of travel, which saw us take a taxi from our London hotel to Victoria Coach Station, a coach through the southeast of England to Dover, a shuttle from the ferry terminal to the ship, the ferry ride itself, a hike through Calais to the train station there, then three separate trains as we made our way through France and Belgium to settle for the night in Bruges.  It was the most grueling leg of the vacation, but entirely worth the trouble.

Bruges (or Brugge, as the local Flemish Dutch-speakers call it) is a breathtakingly special place. Yes, it is full of tourists.  And yes, the shops and activities all cater to those tourists.  But it's like Disneyland — just because the place is designed for tourism doesn't make it any less magical.  As brilliantly immortalized in the film In Bruges, the town is a medieval fantasy frozen in time.  The ancient houses, streets, churches, canals, and bridges paint a scene that is almost impossibly picturesque.  Words can not do it justice, and photos only offer suggestions of the city's beauty.

We stayed two nights in Bruges, at a 100 year-old house now used as a rather luxurious bed and breakfast.  By comparison, our next overnight stay was at a hostel in Ghent, where we only had time to wash laundry (albeit in typically Belgian fashion, as Brandon was served beer while he waited for the clothes).  While Ghent is a larger, more modern city than Bruges, it promised many of the same medieval sights and attractions we had hoped to enjoy; however, our schedule didn't allow us enough time there, as we had a very important appointment to keep a few miles away...

Melle is a town two train stops from Ghent, and was a necessary stop for us for exactly one reason: it is the home of Brewery Huyghe, the maker of Brandon's favorite beer, Delirium Tremens.  We had set up a visit of the facility in advance, and along with just one other couple from England, the five of us were given a personal tour of the entire brewery, even meeting the company's fourth-generation family owner, and culminating in delicious, fresh drinks from Huyghe's own taproom.  The kids happily sipped Coca-Cola from slender beer glasses.  It was something of a pilgrimage for Brandon, a place he'd wanted to see for 15 years, and a definite highlight of the entire trip for everyone.  Even the kids were eager to buy Delirium Tremens gifts at the shop.

Two other places hosted us in Belgium — a beautiful farmhouse in the small village of Poppel, and a nicely appointed apartment in Brussels, where we ended our Belgian leg of the vacation and made our way back to Paris for the two final nights.  Overall, Belgium seemed to suit us best.  It offered the perfect balance of country and city life, with quaint, quiet, clean towns and farms everywhere one looked.  And while Brussels certainly paled in comparison to its larger Gallic cousin Paris (though naturally, Brussels' beer and chocolate selections won out), we think we definitely enjoyed Belgium the most of the few countries we visited.  Without a doubt, we will go back.

Our lovely home away from home while in Bruges

A typically Belgian scene, as we walked into Bruges

Calvin scouting ahead for us as we entered town

The first gift shop we saw

Hundreds of beers in what was otherwise a tacky
tourist shop — naturally, Brandon stocked up here

Hidden side streets and alleyways
like this were everywhere

Eventually, we had to stop for some classic
Belgian fare — beer, frites, and mussels

Stephanie and Brandon passed on the kids' drinks
and went straight for the good stuff

Visiting Bruges without taking a canal boat ride
simply isn't done, and for good reason

Despite their centuries-old age, these buildings
are all still used and lived in

Bruges is simply the most beautiful town
we have ever seen

At last, we made our way to Brewery Huyghe,
makers of the famous "pink elephant" — Delirium Tremens

One of their old copper kettles fronting the parking lot

Even Calvin loved the tour

José, our wonderful tour guide

Raising a toast, albeit with Coke in their glasses

Collapsed in Melle's train station,
surrounded by the things he loves

After touring the brewery, we stopped for lunch at a
café that makes moustache-shaped chicken tenders

The farmhouse bed and breakfast where we stayed one night

A wonderful breakfast next to the sauna — we
were the only guests there

We played table tennis and boules (like bocce ball)...

...and Chloe and Calvin made
the most of the hammock

Finally, the moment Calvin had been waiting
for — the Manneken Pis statue in Brussels

Le Poechenellekelder café, directly
across from Manneken Pis

The fabulous Autoworld car museum in Brussels

Tintin, one of Belgium's most famous exports,
has his own mural in Brussels


Friday, August 14, 2015

Part II of Our European Adventures

After an overnight stay in Lille, we gathered our backpacks and headed for one of the city's two train stations to catch the Eurostar to London.  Traveling through Europe by train really is the convenient, efficient experience it's made out to be.  Our departure and arrival times were nearly always spot on, and though the nuances of our regional Eurail passes were next to impossible to understand, the trains themselves were a delight to travel aboard.  After all, if a family of weary Americans can figure out the Paris Metro at 5:00 am, you know they're doing something right over there.

The Eurostar connects England to the continent via the Channel Tunnel, and we were delivered directly to St. Pancras station in the heart of London.  Over the next few days, we walked approximately 20 miles (thank you, Google Fit), jostling for space in what has to be one of the world's most hectic cities.  Gone were our relaxed days of French strolling; London was a beehive of people in a hurry.  Locals battled with tourists simply for a spot on a sidewalk, and major sites like the Tower of London, the London Eye, Westminster, Piccadilly, Buckingham, and Regent Street were elbow-to-elbow with a swarm of humanity.  To make matters worse, we showed up on the weekend of a massive bicycle event, which saw 50,000 riders pedaling on streets closed to vehicles. It was fun to watch, but only heightened the sense of severe crowding, as getting nearly anywhere around town was a struggle.  In fact, London has become so crowded, and housing costs have risen so sharply there, that one man realized he could save money by living in Barcelona and commuting to London by air.

Still, we enjoyed ourselves.  We covered the obligatory stops, marveled at the Edwardian, Georgian, and Victorian architecture (never have buildings so stern and cold looked so beautiful), survived a visit to Europe's largest toy store, even took the kids to a pub for some fish and chips and a plate of bangers and mash.  One highlight was the Natural History Museum, and Malcolm was excited when he spotted the statue of Charles Darwin in its place of honor.

London is one of the world's truly great cities, and definitely worth visiting at least once, perhaps especially for Americans.  But shy travelers beware: it is not for the timid.

A proper tour of London begins in Trafalgar Square...


...and no visit to Trafalgar Square is complete
without saying hello to the lions


They may be obsolete, but they're still iconic


Near the London Eye, where a kind local family helped us
with one of our few group photos


Europe's tallest ferris wheel and Calvin's Union Jack
jester cap posing for a photo together


The views from the top are absolutely stunning


Buckingham Palace, in all its splendor


The kids appear less impressed with the Queen's pad


Some views in London catch the eye and won't let go


Another hop-on-hop-off bus, this one
motoring across the Tower Bridge


A better view of the magnificent bridge, taken
from the Tower of London


The Tower grounds, a city within a city, with the Shard
skyscraper in the distance


The Yeoman Warders (aka "beefeaters") are caretakers,
guides, and always happy to pose for a picture (this gentleman
was actually stationed in Alaska while with the Royal Air Force)


Members of the Queen's Guard, however,
are not to be trifled with


The Natural History Museum, home to specimens
collected by Darwin


The great man himself, and a young admirer


The easiest way to inspect a blue whale